Byline: Gary Snyder
When it comes to T-shirts, cotton is unquestionably the fabric of our lives, the paradigm of comfort and fit. Still, manufacturers are constantly trying to improve on a good thing. Features like covered seams and double-needle hems, once touted as distinctions, have become the standard. And cotton is no longer the only fabric in our comfortable lives.
"T-shirt fabrics continue to change as T-shirts are becoming more lifestyle wear, not just an activewear item," observes Mike Reed, director of marketing for Hanes Printables in Winston-Salem, N.C. "When dressing up to go out on the town or when dressing down and lounging around the house, there is a unique tee that fits the occasion."
"A T-shirt is great for wearing in lots of different situations," agrees Stefanie Greenwood, marketing services coordinator at VF Brand Solutions in Nashville, Tenn. "It is cool in the summer, for example, because it is breathable."
Upscale tees typically are manufactured from more flattering fabrics like rayon, silk and cotton/spandex blends - textiles that accentuate style and fit. These refined garments are increasingly being worn in relaxed corporate and casual resort environments. Reed points out that Hanes' trademark Beefy-T is at ease in such instances. The venerable collection consists of several styles in as many as 44 colors and sizes as large as 5XL.
But, as with so many other aspects of the apparel industry today, the principle focus is on addressing the female sense of fashion.
Ladies First
Two years ago, Hanes introduced a 70-percent cotton/30-percent rayon blend in its Beefy Silver men's jersey T-shirt. Sporting a slightly narrower 3/4-inch collar, contoured armholes and longer sleeves, this all-natural tee updated the traditional look with a patented product comprised of combed ringspun cotton and eucalyptus-derived Nativa rayon. The end result is a shirt that coalesces the comfort of cotton with the richness of rayon.
"With its subtle color palette and graceful fabric drape suggestive of more expensive apparel, Beefy Silver is one of the most impressive, yet practical, T-shirts on the market," states Reed.
This year several new styles were added to the Silver for Her line, which already offered a comparable jersey, as well as a scoopneck tee and a 3/4-sleeve V-neck style. Raglan and ringer tees feature contrasting collars and cuffs, while long- and short-sleeved V-neck versions are available in a range of feminine colors. All are tapered for a womanly figure while retaining the classic cut that has made T-shirts such a fashion favorite.
"There are items that are made specifically for women that are going to have more style and cut than, say, a traditional tee would have," says Greenwood, "and that is something the end user is going to appreciate."
VF's Gitano Ladies' Ribbed Tees exemplify these features. The standard style has a shaped body and 1-inch hems; the sleeveless V-neck version boasts a scooped bottom and shaped side seams for a closer fit. The ribbing on both lends visual and physical texture. The variety of fashionable colors is also important in this popular line, as is the compatibility factor.
"They complement all of the other pieces in the Gitano line, from ribbed tanks to zip-fleece pullovers," says Greenwood. "We offer the same colors and sizes in all those different styles, which makes it a plus for someone who is wanting to carry through a consistent look throughout the year."
"As far as ladies tees, the semi-sheers seem to be a big trend," offers Scott Hawn, marketing manager for Imprints Wholesale. He suggests paying particular attention to tension when sewing these lighter-weight shirts. "I don't think it is really going to tie anybody's hands; you are just going to have to be a little bit more aware."
In addition to the semi-sheers, his company also has expanded its garment dye line to enfold a full range of long- and short-sleeved shirts, including a double-sleeved tee with contrasting long-sleeves. But the big buzz for this Denver-based distributor is another shirt by Anvil.
Innovation Evolution
"I think their Dri-release fabric is going to be a big part of the future," ventures Hawn. A heavyweight 85-percent polyester/15-percent cotton blend, it claims to dry four times faster than pure cotton and resists odor - two significant considerations among the active, whether they are working or playing. "We are seeing more and more race events that are using performance fabrics rather than just a cotton T-shirt."
M.J. Soffe Co. has sold a similar shirt for a few years, targeted at the athletic market, according to Steve Wheeler. The vice president of sales and marketing for the Fayetteville, N.C. manufacturer says their Dri-release products are particularly popular with hockey teams. Worn primarily under their practice uniforms, some players have also been known to slip a clean one under a sports coat after their work out. Even so, he sees the foremost feature of this versatile microfiber as its functionality.
"The hardest part about technical fabrics is you can't really experience what it is about until you sweat in it and it wicks moisture away," he says. The treatment is intrinsic to the yarn, so, whether it is under a policeman's uniform or Mickey Mouse's costume, the wearer stays drier, cooler and more comfortable over many more washings.
"I know there was a company in the soccer business that would embroider their logo on the left chest and it was more of a branded status item," says Wheeler, "but we don't see a lot of embroidery on it."
Enduring Entries
Soffe's classic, a 100-percent cotton heavyweight shirt that has integrated big and tall sizes, is better suited to embellishment to Wheeler's mind. It is an inch longer and 2 inches wider than a basic tee.
American Apparel stresses fit in its T-shirts. And although some styles are available in unisex models, their prevalent Classic Girl line is designed specifically for women seeking a youthful fit. "We are introducing our new organic fabric in a fine jersey and basic ribbed tee," says Mark Smalley, a marketing representative for the Los Angeles company. "These two ladies tees are woven from 100-percent certified cotton and are only available in their natural color."
Another alternative for the environmentally-aware buyer is cultivated by S.O.S. From Texas Organic Cotton Products. The Texas Department of Agriculture designates the cotton grower and garment manufacturer, located a little over 100 miles east of Amarillo in Samnorwood, as a certified organic farm.
"Our Green Genes T-shirt is an environmental statement: We grow without any chemicals or pesticides," says owner Gary Oldman. "Switching to organic farming eliminates about 4 ounces of chemicals per shirt."
This pristine approach persists through processing where the fabric is subjected to a natural scour using no bleaches or dyes. Consequently, the premium weight tee comes with the greenish cast of the source fiber, a hue that deepens with repeated washing. S.O.S. also grows organic crew socks, shorts and some infant items.
"Not only do these natural products have a nice, soft hand," Oldman remarks, "they also smell good. And they are completely made in the United States."
Some long-standing T-shirts have been reinvented. Hanes Comfort-T has metamorphosed into Hanes Authentic in adult and youth sizes. Not only do 10 new shades complement this standard shirt (mostly in ladies sizes), its neck tag is now screen-printed rather than sewn-in separately. The tagless innovation is a touch that is certain to gain a pleased following among those who consider comfort a key selling point.
"Another blend we came out with is our melange gym tees," says Smalley. "The fabric is 70 percent combed cotton and 30 percent polyester with a retro look and feel." Reminiscent of the gym shirts of the 70s, it refines past fashion for the current consumer.
That would make it your dad's T-shirt.
Gary Snyder is a Denver-based freelancer who writes regularly for Stitches Magazine.
sources
(Sources listed are those included in this story. For a complete listing, see the Stitches Magazine 2004 Sourcing Guide.)
American Apparel Los Angeles, (213) 488-0226 www.americanapparel.net
Bella Inc. City of Commerce, Calif., (323) 727-2005 www.bellainc.com
Gildan Activewear St. Michael, Barbados, (877) 445-3265 www.gildan.com
Hanes Printables Winston-Salem, N.C., (800) 685-7557 www.hanesprintables.com
Imprints Wholesale Denver, (800) 634-2945 www.imprintswholesale.com
M.J. Soffe Co. Fayetteville, N.C., (800) 444-0337 www.soffe.com
S.O.S. From Texas Organic Cotton Products Samnorwood, Texas, (800) 245-2339 www.sosfromtexas.com
