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THIRD most popular US destination for UK holidaymakers, Florida's fun capital gets bigger all the time.

When Sanford - the city's second international airport - opened in 1999, welcoming package tourists who had used Orlando International, it was as if Orlando had let its burgertightened belt out a few notches.

Full package-tour flights show 11 September hasn't dampened British enthusiasm: main tourist areas Kissimmee and International Drive (I-Drive) are buzzing with mall cash registers and Brits in search of golf, 300-plus days of sun and family fun.

Peter and Jill Bird of Croydon have been virtually yearly for a decade: "They say 'Have a nice day' and mean it," says Peter. "We were supposed to go to the South of France," says London Ambulance Service officer Stephen Colhoun, "but we couldn't guarantee the weather, so we came here."

Sam, Tony and Bernice Spicer of Gillingham say their villa stay in Kissimmee would be their "last family holiday together". Sam rates Universal's Tower of Terror lift-drop ride, though "it didn't bounce as much as last time".

Theme parks are the reason the Brooker and Johnson families from Wallington chose Orlando.

Best? "Swimming with sharks at Disney's Typhoon Lagoon."

On the beach...

NEW Smyrna, 60 minutes northeast of Orlando, is a local favourite - crowd-free, safe swimming; fine beaches at Florida's Space Coast, east of the city by Kennedy Space Center. Discovery Cove (6000 Discovery Cove Way), SeaWorld's latest park, has created a powder sand beach: swim with stingrays and tropical fish on its artificial reef or hug a dolphin.

What they're reading...

Pastures Nouveaux, Artemis Fowl, Daily Mail Florida edition, mall discount voucher booklets Parks and rides 2002 Disney's Animal Kingdom, Universal's Islands of Adventure and SeaWorld's Discovery Cove have opened in recent years.

Entertainment complexes include: Universal's CityWalk and Disney's Downtown, next door to the main parks. SeaWorld (7007 SeaWorld Drive) has the Kraken: Orlando's highest, fastest coaster; feet dangle to make things scarier. Dueling Dragons at Universal Islands of Adventure (1000 Universal Studios Plaza) is two intertwined coasters: you fear you'll crash headlong into the other. Aerosmith Rock and Roller Coaster at Disney MGM Studios (1000 Lake Buena Vista Blvd), fires you to 60mph, blasting rock while you loop in the dark.

Height limits on all.

Young kids: instead try Honey I Shrunk the Audience at Disney's Magic Kingdom, don 3D specs, get shrunk and pursued by a 100ft high dog. 3D thrills also at Universal's Terminator 2 and Spider-Man at Islands of Adventure.

Queue-jump with free fast passes from machines at rides: book a specific time, return later.

Tickets: Discovery Cove (www.discoverycove.com) $219: Disney (www.disneyworld.com), $48, kids (3-9) $38; SeaWorld (www.seaworld.com), $44.95/$35.95; Universal (www.universal studios.com) from $49.95/$40.95.

Tickets can cost less on your international flight; beware cheap theme park tickets on I-Drive; you might need to buy a timeshare to get them.

Last-gasp deals Availability to Orlando to is extremely tight, with major operators reporting no deals until September. However: Departs Gatwick Monday, seven nights at any of Disney's All-Stars Resorts cost pounds 3,634 for two adults and two children (aged two to 11), through Walt Disney Travel Company (0870 24 24 900, www.disneyworld.co.uk); roomonly, return BA flights, car rental and unlimited Disney admission.

Departing Gatwick on Wednesday, Airtours Holidays (0870 241 5339) has 14 nights room only at the 4A Wyndham Orlando, from pounds 819pp (based on four sharing); or at a 3A property in the I-Drive area allocated on arrival, from pounds 679pp, including return flights.

Departing 26 August, Virgin Holidays (0871 222 1900) has a fortnight at the Quality Inn Maingate West for pounds 669pp (pounds 349 under 12 sharing); B&B, with Virgin Atlantic flights from Gatwick.

MARK Frary travelled to Orlando with JMC Holidays (0870 555 0440; www.jmc.com), which has seven nights at the Hawthorn Suites Universal Orlando for pounds 740pp in September (based on four sharing), with Gatwick flights. For further information on Orlando call Orlando Tourism Bureau (0800 018 6760) or visit www.orlandoinfo.com

BORED WITH THEME PARKS?

Golf is just as popular. If Tiger Woods lives here, you know it must be good. Tiger's own course, Iselworth, is private, but Orlando has more than 100 - Disney has seven. Its Magnolia 18-holer (1950 W. Magnolia Palm Dr) is the longest of these courses and even has a MIckey Mouse-shaped bunker, from $95 per day guest.

Take a fan boat ride among alligators on Boggy Creek, about 40 minutes out of Orlando: exit 17 off route 417; $17.95pp/$12.95.

Dodge the humidity and shop'n'chill at Belz (where I-Drive crosses West Oak Ridge Road) for Gap, Levi's and Calvin Klein staples at half UK prices.

Or at the Orlando Premium Outlets mall (8200 Vineland Ave) to save up to 65 per cent on MaxMara, Ferragamo and Armani.

If you're falling in love: dinner in the secret garden at Trastevere (400 S Orlando Ave, 407 628 1277) in Winter Park, the historic old town - just oozes romance. About $35pp.

Fashionable 20-somethings will rate the refurbed Blue Room (17 West Pine Street, 407 423 2588) for funk, old school and progressive house; entry $6 max. The Groove, at CityWalk, outside the Universal Studios lot, is surprisingly noncorporatised: house and trance for over-21s, with loads of themed rooms each selling their own signature drinks. Downtown may be dead but Latitudes (35 W Church Street, 407 649 4270) lives on, with a rooftop bar, great views and drinks from $1 some nights.

If you're suffering: Pharmacy Walgreen's, on the corner of Kirkman and I-Drive, is open 24/7 for prescriptions, sunslap and cheap multivitamins to keep you going.